iSeoul Museum of Craft ArtAnguk-dong, Jongno-gu
A collaboration with the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum exploring how craft mediates the memories of the site's people and places across eras.
Empress Sunjeonghyo's own clothes are here: the dangui ceremonial jacket, nambawi winter hood and tosu arm warmers she wore. In 1906 she married the future Emperor Sunjong on this site, then the Andong detached palace. She and Princess Ui later gave these pieces to a Catholic order of nuns, whose museum has lent them.
Nobody has rebuilt the palace. You walk among parts of columns and fragments of ornament, each set out on its own, next to Princess Ui's hairpins and two court investiture records listed as national Treasures. The artist Kwon Minho layers the site's later lives, as Pungmun Girls' High School and now the museum, in drawing and video.
ArtKoreaTV found it calm and restrained, with objects that don't explain themselves, so it suits visitors who already know the Korean Empire story. The original wonyugwan crown was out for only six days at opening; a replica stands in now. Entry is free, on the 3rd floor of Exhibition Building 3, and Fridays run until 21:00.
The empress's dangui, hood and arm warmers
Look for the ceremonial jacket, nambawi winter hood and tosu arm warmers that Empress Sunjeonghyo, who married on this site in 1906, wore herself.
Princess Ui's hairpins
A set of kkochi ornamental pins and binyeo hairpins that Princess Ui kept and later gave to the Sisters of the Blessed Korean Martyrs.
Prince Ui's crown and robe
A replica of the wonyugwan crown he is said to have worn at his 1906 investiture, shown with his dallyeong robe; the original was out for six days only.
Kwon Minho's drawings and video
Drawing and moving image laid over each other so the palace, Pungmun Girls' High School and today's museum read as one landscape.
You want a reconstructed palace: the show sets out fragments and clothing, not rebuilt rooms.