iSaga Arashiyama Museum of Arts & CultureArashiyama
Early-modern and modern paintings of Kyoto's sights, festivals, geiko and vegetables, from Hara Zaichū's Aoi Festival scroll to sweet-shop wrappers by Tomioka Tessai.
In 1893 Tomioka Tessai painted Takao, and he also designed wrapping paper for the sweet shop Toraya. Both are here until 14 December. Sasaya Morie, Suetomi and Kyoto Kuriya lent their own papers and bags too, drawn by Dōmoto Inshō, Ikeda Yōson and Yamamoto Shunkyo, so check the stash of shop bags under your sink.
Around them, about 60 paintings from the 17th to the 20th century, nearly all lent by the neighbouring Fukuda Art Museum, show Kyoto's sights and rituals: Mount Inari, the Kamo River, Kinkaku-ji, geiko, and turnips and bamboo shoots by Tokuoka Shinsen. Twelve are shown for the first time. On 16 December most of the hang changes, and the screens of the city centre give way to a pair showing its outskirts. You can photograph the paintings, without flash.
Tickets are ¥1,000, including the permanent Hyakunin Isshu display. Curators give free talks at 11:15 on 18 October, 15 November, 20 December, 17 January and 14 February.
Scenes in and Around Central Kyoto
A pair of 17th-century folding screens of the city's famous places, up until 14 December; from 16 December a matching pair of the outskirts replaces them.
Hara Zaichū's Aoi Festival handscroll
The Aoi Matsuri painted in 1832 as a hand scroll: the first scroll shows until 14 December, the second from 16 December.
The sweet-shop wrapping papers
Papers and bags designed by Tomioka Tessai for Toraya and by Dōmoto Inshō for Sasaya Morie, shown beside Inshō's paintings lent by the same shop.
The sacred child of the Gion Festival
Miyake Kōhaku's Chigo paints the boy who serves as the gods' messenger in the Gion Festival, on view until 14 December.
Kyoto vegetables
Tokuoka Shinsen's Turnip (1942) hangs until 14 December, then his Bamboo Shoots (1940) and Takeuchi Seihō's Fish and Vegetables take over.
Under-7s are free and ages 7 to 15 pay ¥400. Tuesdays and Sundays are "Feel Free to Talk" days, when talking in the galleries is welcome.