iRyukoku MuseumNishi Honganji / Horikawa
Ahead of its 1,300th anniversary, Fumonji, a mountain temple in Toyohashi, Aichi, lends powerful Heian-period Buddhist sculptures, sutra-mound finds and historical documents.
The Fudo Myoo here is said to be exactly as tall as Minamoto no Yoritomo. The temple's chronicle says the future shogun had it carved to his own height while praying to beat the Taira, then visited after winning and gave the temple land.
Fumonji is a Shingon mountain temple in Toyohashi, Aichi, founded in 727 and burned down twice. Ahead of its 1,300th anniversary it has lent about 50 treasures, in three chapters from its Heian heyday to its revival. You stand before two seated Buddhas that reach nearly 3 metres on their pedestals. Kyoto has some 1,600 temples, and this autumn it borrowed the treasures of one more from Aichi.
The Kyoto Shimbun says most pieces may be photographed. Some works change when the second half opens on 20 October. Adults pay ¥1,200; show your stub on a second visit and your whole group gets the group rate. The head priest gives gallery talks at 16:00 on 17 October and 11 and 17 November.
The two giant seated Buddhas
A Shaka and an Amida from the late Heian period, about 1.4 metres tall seated and close to 3 metres with their pedestals.
Yoritomo's Fudo Myoo
A standing Fudo that temple tradition says Yoritomo had carved to his own height while praying for victory over the Taira.
The baby-faced jaki
Look for the demon under a broken guardian figure: where trampled jaki usually writhe in pain, this one has a sweet, childlike face.
The monk Eii's oath board, 1161
A wooden tablet recording the rules for the temple's woodland, sworn by a monk before its main Buddha.
The flower-and-birds mirror
A late-Heian bronze mirror decorated with auspicious flowers and a pair of birds, dug from one of the temple's sutra mounds.
Elementary and junior-high pupils pay ¥300, and under school age is free. On 17 October and 11 and 17 November there are bookable ¥500 "hug a jaki" sessions, 20 places each.