iUffizi GalleryCentro Storico
Retrospective at the Museum of Costume and Fashion dedicated to Florentine couturier Ferdinando Sarmi, who dressed Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and Marlene Dietrich. Features iconic garments alongside archival materials evoking the glamour of 1950s–60s New York high society, shown in the Ballroom and adjoining rooms at Palazzo Pitti.
You walk into a room where the museum has opened its storage boxes: hat trimmings from the Florentine milliner Leonella, sorted by colour and type. They're here because Sarmi loved flowers, enough that Irene Brin titled a Harper's Bazaar piece on him "Ditelo con i fiori" (Say it with flowers).
Elizabeth Arden spotted the Ravenna-born count at Florence's 1951 Giorgini show and took him to New York, where he dressed Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Pat Nixon. Curator Vanessa Gavioli counts 12 dresses, in the 19th-century ballroom of the Palazzina della Meridiana and adjoining rooms; the shoes are period but not his. Pages from three collage albums he made himself share the hat-box room, and tiny original photos place him in a milliner's scene of Antonioni's Cronaca di un amore.
Il Giornale dell'Arte called Antonio Godoli's staging refined. It is a compact stop within a Pitti visit, covered by the palace ticket (€16 on the day, €19 in advance), Tuesday to Sunday until 6:30pm, through 31 December.
Leonella's hat-trim boxes
Look for the museum's own storage boxes of hat decorations from the Florentine milliner Leonella, laid out by colour and type for Sarmi's love of flowers.
Sarmi's collage albums
Sheets from three albums Sarmi pasted together himself, tracking his shoots in the big fashion magazines, with models such as Veruschka.
Sarmi in Cronaca di un amore
Tiny original photographs show him in the milliner's shop scene with Lucia Bosè in Antonioni's 1950 film.
The documentary
Eugenia Paulicelli's film Untold Stories of New York Fashion, where costume designer Massimo Cantini Parrini recalls that Sarmi loved bows, chiffon and duchesse satin.
You want a big fashion blockbuster: it's 12 dresses, with period shoes not made by Sarmi.
The curator says the museum's children's workshops for this show have kids making fabric flowers, after Sarmi's floral theme.