iLegion of Honor · Lincoln Park, Outer Richmond
The first major US retrospective of the Tunisian-born Paris couturier: 80 garments, including designs worn by Tina Turner, Grace Jones and Rihanna.
Prévia: escrita antes da abertura da exposição
In spring 1988 Carla Sozzani, then editor of Italian Elle, had Paolo Roversi shoot a black bustier dress outlined with silver pins for the cover. The cover never ran and she was fired over it, she told WWD. The dress has been called the Carla ever since, and it's in this show.
There are about 80 of Alaïa's garments, all on the transparent mannequins molded on Naomi Campbell that he insisted on. Downstairs, in the C-shaped special-exhibition galleries, you move through bandage dresses, suiting, black and white, and construction down to the zippers and pearls. Upstairs, pieces stand among the museum's Rodins, and one gallery shows his own collection of Balenciaga, Madame Grès, Charles James and Adrian. The Museums' costume curator admits they own no Alaïa, while Bay Area donors are still wearing theirs.
It's the first major Alaïa retrospective in the US. The museum hadn't posted the show's ticket price when this was written; the Legion opens Tuesday to Sunday, 9:30am to 5:15pm.
A primeira grande retrospetiva nos EUA dedicada ao costureiro parisiense nascido na Tunísia: 80 peças de vestuário, incluindo criações usadas por Tina Turner, Grace Jones e Rihanna — uma lista de clientes que também funciona como lista de músicas para uma festa.
The Carla
Look for the spring 1988 black bustier dress outlined in silver pins, shot by Paolo Roversi for an Italian Elle cover that was never published.
Tina Turner's beaded dress
The silk organza dress beaded with gold-tone steel that Turner wore for Peter Lindbergh's 1989 photo shoot in Paris.
The Naomi Campbell mannequins
Every outfit stands on Alaïa's own transparent molded plastic mannequins, modeled on Naomi Campbell, which he demanded for showing his work.
Alaïa the collector
One gallery holds vintage couture he collected, by Madame Grès, Charles James, Balenciaga and Adrian, shown in the US for the first time.