iMeşherBeyoğlu
Travel accounts, paintings and objects tracing journeys to Ottoman lands from the late 15th to early 20th century and the motives behind them.
Eight paintings follow an ambassador's arrival in the Ottoman Empire, his reception and his audience with the sultan. Four are by artists travelling with the Habsburg envoy Hans Ludwig von Kuefstein, four show the Ottoman side of the same protocol. Al-Monitor called it "the bilateral gaze that Orientalism rarely managed".
Around them sit more than 300 works from the Sadberk Hanım Museum and Ömer Koç collections, late 15th to early 20th century, grouped by why people travelled: curiosity, faith, war, diplomacy, trade and finally tourism. You'll pass Dürer prints, kaftans, tiles and the coffee and dress Europe's courts copied. Turkish coffee went west in this traffic and came back up İstiklal centuries later as an oat flat white.
Medyascope liked that it shows war and trade, not just romantic travel. The catch, per Al-Monitor: regulars will recognise some pieces, like Dürer's Rhinoceros, from earlier Istanbul shows. Entry is free, Tuesday to Sunday 11:00 to 19:00, with free Turkish tours Wednesdays and Saturdays at 12:30 and 16:00 (book ahead).
Eight paintings follow a Habsburg embassy into the Ottoman court, four by the envoy's own artists and four from the Ottoman side. Al-Monitor called it "the bilateral gaze that Orientalism rarely managed". Regulars will know Dürer's Rhinoceros from earlier shows.
The embassy paintings
Eight canvases trace an ambassador's arrival, reception and audience with the sultan, four of them painted by artists in Habsburg envoy Kuefstein's entourage.
Ligozzi's left-handed archers
Jacopo Ligozzi painted two left-handed archers and a dog in 1580 to 1585, in tempera with shell gold on paper.
A 1570s ship's lantern
An Ottoman ship's lantern in tombak, gilded copper, from the Sadberk Hanım Museum.
The Turk's Head on the stairs
Look in one of the stairways for an early 20th-century ceramic Turk's Head, which Al-Monitor singles out as proof that not all here is splendour and peace.
Pushchairs are allowed in the galleries, a lift serves every floor, and baby-changing is in the women's toilets on the entrance level.
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