iSen-oku Hakuko Kan · Shishigatani
Esta exposición ya ha terminado.
The 1626 Kan'ei imperial procession to Nijo Castle, centred on the museum's teeming folding screen, and the refined culture around Empress Tofukumon'in.
Web del museoSomewhere among the 3,226 people on the museum's folding screen, a man has curtained off his spot on the parade route and sits behind it with courtesans as the emperor passes. Spectators eat, drink and start a fight. Others pray, and if you follow their gaze you reach the emperor's palanquin, a phoenix on its roof.
The screen records the procession of 1626, when Emperor Go-Mizunoo rode to Nijo Castle as the shogun's guest. The rest follows his empress, the shogun's daughter Tokugawa Kazuko: her portrait, the padded silk pictures she made as gifts for friends, and a water jar Go-Mizunoo is said to have shaped himself. The re-enacted procession on 6 December has seats for spectators in period costume, and this screen is their dress code.
Irohani's reviewer came for history and ended up grinning at the bystanders. The oldest surviving twelve-layer robe left on 27 September. Tickets are 1,200 yen (students 800, under-18s free), not timed, and include the Bronze Gallery. Last day 18 October; closed Tuesday 13th.
The bystanders on the Nijo Castle screen
Look along the route for the crowd ignoring the emperor: people eating and drinking, a brawl, and a man curtained off with courtesans.
The emperor's phoenix palanquin
Follow the praying spectators' gaze to Go-Mizunoo's palanquin, a square roof topped with a phoenix, carried by a crowd of bearers behind court musicians in bird-shaped helmets.
The horse that may be Date Masamune's
In the lower procession only the shogun's horses wear brown trappings, plus one other; the museum suggests its rider is Date Masamune, said to have copied the shogun's colour.
Kazuko's Yang Guifei oshie
A Noh scene built from small pieces of padded silk, so the costumed figure stands slightly proud of the surface, made by the empress herself.
Go-Mizunoo's water jar
A tea-ceremony water jar the emperor is said to have shaped himself; the lid's knob, kneaded by hand, still carries finger marks.
You came for the oldest surviving twelve-layer robe: it was shown only until 27 September.
Under-18s get in free (bring ID). Kids can hunt the screen's 3,226 figures for the ones eating, drinking and fighting while the emperor goes by.