Musa

What's on in London

May 2026

There are no slow months. May closes the British Museum's Samurai, opens Whistler at Tate Britain, and gives you Hockney for free at the Serpentine through summer. Six picks worth planning weeks around.

British Museum · Closes 4 May

Samurai

The Western image of the samurai is a Hollywood mess — the lone swordsman, the code, the inevitable death. The British Museum has spent the spring quietly correcting it: five centuries of armour, lacquered helmets, and battle manuals that read like UX research. Last week to catch it before most of the loans head back to Japan.

National Portrait Gallery · Closes 31 May

Catherine Opie: To Be Seen

Opie spent forty years photographing the people America didn't want to look at — leather communities in the eighties, queer pregnant parents in the nineties, the empty Republican landscapes of the last decade. Her first proper UK survey, on the NPG's top floor, is the most quietly political show in town. Don't sleep on it.

Serpentine Gallery · Free • to 23 Aug

David Hockney

Hockney at 88, in Hyde Park, free, all summer. The Serpentine is small enough you can do the show twice in an hour — which is the right way to do it. Once for the colour. Once for the looking. May is the cleanest version of this you'll get; by July the queue has found its length.

Science Museum · Free • closes 31 May

Pantanal

The Pantanal is a wetland larger than England, half jaguar and half water, and most of the world has no idea it exists. The Science Museum has the large-format photographs, free, and they close at month-end. Strong with kids. Stronger without.

National Gallery · Opens 2 May

Zurbarán

Zurbarán painted monks and martyrs with a black-on-black tenderness that hasn't aged in four hundred years. The first proper UK gathering of his work opens at the National Gallery on 2 May. Spanish Golden Age, no apologies, all teeth.

Tate Britain · Opens 21 May

James McNeill Whistler

Whistler sued John Ruskin for libel over a single painting, won the case, took a farthing in damages, and bankrupted himself doing it. Tate Britain's full retrospective opens 21 May — nocturnes, portraits, the Peacock Room studies, the lot. The most stylish litigant in art history finally gets the second look he was always going to need.

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